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There are specialists for dating Persian paintings but it is surprising that such precession is missing in the field of Islamic non-figural ornament which isstrange because from the second half of the sixteenth century there are several treatises that provide the names for the major ―motifs‖ – the haft asl (the seven modes). Although several modern scholars have suggested meanings for one or more of the seven terms – islīmī, khatā’ī, band-i rūmī, dāgh, nīlufer, abr, faṣṣālī and firangī– no one heretofore has presented an explanation for them that intergrades the wordsinto a comprehensive statement of Islamic design. This research includes a new historical sequence for the motifs. Beginning in the ninth century with the mis-named ―arabesque‖, now rightfully termed the islīmī aṣl; the first combination occurs in the tenth century with the addition of the ―band-irūmī” a process for knotting and braiding vines taken from Byzantine art. In the eleventh to twelfth century, with the invasions of the Seljuqs into Persia and Turkey, the wāqwāq asl was joined to the previous two. Wave of Chinese influence supplanted the wāqwāq aṣl, with cloud bands (abr) and khatā’ī, another type of more delicate vine with flowers, buds and leaf motifs. Combination of islīmī with khatā’ī generated the aṣl, faṣṣālī. Lastly, firangī the Persian word used to indicate the Franks or Europeans in general, is a type of design organization with larger motifs overlapping smaller ones, deriving from designs on Venetian textiles of the fourteenth century popularly imported into Islamic cities. Not only does this research, which was carried out on both a theoretical level – tracing the meanings of terms through the centuries -but also on empirical basis with interviews of contemporary craftsmen in Pakistan and Iran, add clarity to descriptions of Islamic ornament but also aids art historian in verifying dates and schools of Qur‘an illumination and so forth.

Masooma Abbas. (2018) Haft Aṣl: The Seven Modes of Ornamentation in Islamic Art, Journal of Arts and Social sciences, Volume 5, Issue 1.
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